The Synchronous Converter

Designing and growing a beautiful landscape garden around your home is a great experience. Just imagine how it will feel looking
around your own beautifully grown and maintained garden, that stays fresh all the day and fills your life with a sense of pride. But before you start let’s take a look at some of the key factors that can needs a major decision while executing your garden.

I have tried to list down some of the common points here that need attention prior to starting out landscaping design.

1) Information about plants.

This is quite obvious. You must have a list of plants ready with you. .it is not difficult to create such a list from a catalogue of plants at your local nursery or from the Internet, but the problem is these are the plants that you like, does not mean they are suitable for growth in your garden.

Why is this so? Simply because there are many factors that are
responsible for the growth of a plant in your garden, such as direct sunlight, amount of water required, frequency of watering, which compost to use and not to use, doe the plant grow individually or in groups, and many more. SO don’t choose plants that just look good in photographs, find out something more about their basic requirements.

Also it is important to know the basic structure of plant. For example how tall will it grow after 10 years from now. It should not happen that you have planted a tree and after a few years it is blocking your entire garden entry passage and view from inside of the house.

It’s ok if you don’t have each and every detail about all the plants. But if you plan for future, the results will be quite satisfactory.

2) Gardening Tools

This is very important aspect of gardening. Growing a landscape garden is not an easy task. I am not discouraging you, but it requires physical hard work and such time gardening tools can save your tremendous energy.

There are many excellent tools available today and also in quite
affordable prices. Depending upon what you want to achieve and the expanse your garden you will require different sets of tools. Start with making of list and then short listing the most important ones my deciding priorities.

3) Landscaping Design Styles..

This is not an absolute must, but if you take extra efforts, I bet you can easily compete with the professional designers. Visit your local library or the internet and get an idea of how “design” plays a role in landscaping. When designers talk about “balance”, “ambience”, “proportions”, “vista formation” what exactly are they talking about. All these elements can greatly add value to your garden such that people visiting your garden will always remember it.

4) Landscaping Material..

Again a very basic understanding of landscaping materials along with their costing structure is enough for you. Whey costing is necessary? Because this can have a drastic effect in hoe you execute your garden.

It should not happen that you have personally liked a material, you have seen it at some public garden or at your friend’s place and want to use it in your backyard garden but at the last moment the budget doesn’t allow you to use it.

5) Executing Your Garden..

Do you know what’s the single most important aspect in executing a garden? it’s schedule. By schedule I mean what comes first and what comes next. There are various questions to ask.

*When do I start?
*When should I order the plants from the nursery?
*Where should I store them before panting?
*If you are going to use electricity in your garden when should I call the electrician to perform his wiring tasks?
*what about compost bags?
*How many do I need them?
*what about the bags that go unused? and lot more…

Even if you appoint a “landscaping contractor” for this job, you can always use this list to cross examine what he is up to.

6) Maintaining Your Garden..

Maintained is the most important aspect in a garden. Someone has very cleverly said “It is very easy to be first, but it is comparatively harder to keep up the first position”. A landscape garden is no different from this.

look it’s simple you are using natures forces to express your
creativity, so follow natures rule and you will never fail. there is unlimited potential in nature to easily grow and maintain a beautiful garden on it’s own, so shale hands with natures forces and see you dream come true. That’s why the first point in this articles is very important. First study what works and what doesn’t in your climatic conditions and then safely start to put your dream into reality.

I hope this article was helpful to everybody.

Copyright Shrinivas Vaidya

Shrinivas Vaidya is the webmaster on landscapingdatabse.com If you are interested in making the most out of your landscaping passion, I recommend you visit my website to find an excellent list of books on Do It Yourself Landscaping. You will be glad you visited.

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Log Cabin Building Tip: Locating and Installing a Water Source
for your Log Cabin

Water is one of the most important things that you will need for
your camp. It can be the hardest or the easiest thing to find. A
clear lake and a bucket is the cheapest way you’ll be able to get
a good supply. It is important that the water you use be free
from harmful bacteria. Taste is no substitute for a test of good
drinking water.

Local health authorities are usually willing to test the water
for you. Other agencies that will tell you whether the water is
suitable include State Health Departments, County Health Offices,
and Health Hygienic Laboratories.

Now let’s get back to the problem of how we’re going to get
running water into your camp without depending upon some leaks in
the roof. Water can be obtained from a dug well, a bored well, a
drilled well, or from surface sources such as lakes, springs, or
cisterns.

A dug well is usually used where rocky soil prohibits the use of
a driven well, and where water can be reached by simple
excavation. Basically it is a hole in the ground. Perhaps the
first thing to do in building a dug well is to inquire from your
neighbors whether they have used this type of water source.

If their report is satisfactory, you should start considering the
best location for such a well. Be sure that it is located at
least 100 feet from your sewage system and drain field. It should
also be located on higher ground.

Having found the best location, start digging a hole about 4 feet
in diameter. As you dig, be sure that you use cross braces to
keep the upper earth in place. Eventually you will (maybe) reach
water. The lower section of the well should be lined with brick
or stone. Do not use mortar.

You want a pervious wall that will let water in. The upper part
of the wall must be water-tight to prevent contamination. This
wall should be about 10 feet high and extend about I foot above
the ground. If you can install your pump within 22 feet vertical
distance of the normal water level, use a shallow-well jet.

Reciprocating, or centrifugal pump lifts greater than 22 feet
(sea level) will require a deep-well jet or reciprocating pump.
In the illustration you will note that the upper 10 feet of the
dug well is filled with earth. A watertight slab is placed over
the pervious lower section. If you use this type of construction,
be sure to include a pipe sleeve large enough to install the
water pipe and foot valve.

Also install a vent pipe. Cast some hooks in the slab so that you
will have something to hold on to as you lower it into place. It
will be heavy. This type of well is similar to a dug one, except
that instead of digging a large hole, you dig one of small
diameter. A well borer or earth auger is used to make a hole down
to water level.

This system works best in firm sand, clay, or light gravel. The
borer looks like a double shovel and has a handle about 4 feet
long. As you go down, additional lengths of pipe are added to the
handle. Digging is done by forcing the borer into the ground and
twisting the handle. As the double shovel is filled, lift the
earth out and empty. Keep going till you reach water.

When you find water, line the hole with large steel pipe or
vitrified tile. Use an internal grapple to lower each section of
tile into the hole. This lining should extend a little above
ground to keep out surface water. Use a concrete platform at the
top as shown in the illustration. The size and type of pump that
can be used with this system is the same as with the dug well
described before

About the Author

About the Author: Jack Hudson is a writer for
http://www.log-cabin-plans-n-kits.com and
http://www.best-house-n-home-plans.com/. These two sites work
collectively as a resouce for the planning and building of log
cabins as well as choosing from different house plans. Visit one
of these sites for informative articles as well as free TIPS for
building a log home or choosing a house plan.

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If you read the previous articles on “Planning The Basics” and “Planning The Planting”, you will have planned the structural bits of your garden, e.g. the boundary, buildings, climber support and hard landscaping and you will have decided what plants you want to grow. If you have built raised beds, you now have somewhere to put your plants, otherwise, you probably have some earthy bits, with or without weeds so let’s make a start.

Prepare the Ground

• Dig and turn over the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches (30 cm), preferably double that if you propose to plant small trees or shrubs, and remove weeds and grass.
• Test the soil with a kit which you can buy from any garden centre. If your soil is alkaline (i.e. has lime in it) you will not be able to grow plants of the same family as rhododendrons and heathers without adjusting the pH but in general an average acidity will support most plants. The acidity or alkalinity of the soil is measured by pH (potential Hydrogen ions). As a rule of thumb, soils in moist climates inclines towards the acid and those in dry climates tend to be alkaline. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil and one with a pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline. To raise the pH and make soil more alkaline, add lime and to make it more acid (lower the pH), add sulphur. Proprietary products are available to alter the soil pH. Follow the manufacturers’ instructions for dosage and application carefully. If the pH is average and you don’t want to grow anything special, don’t try to adjust it.
• No matter what type your soil, it will need nourishment and structure so add some all-purpose fertilizer and some compost and dig it in well. If the soil is very sticky (clay content), add some bark or grit to allow drainage. If the soil is very fine and sandy, add some peat.
• Level out the ground with a rake.
• If you made a plan on paper, place your plants on the ground, still in their pots, accordingy to your plan. If you don’t have a plan already, now is the time to make one.

Prepare the Planting Holes

It is best for the plants if you don’t do this in the heat of the midday sun, so choose evening time or a cloudy day.

The following works for almost any plant which has already been grown on in a pot as well as rhizomes and tubers (e.g. dahlias).

• Starting at the back of a bed, dig a hole for plant number one, approximately three times the width and twice the depth of the pot.
• To the soil which you have removed, add lots of compost and peat plus a small handful of granular fertiliser. Mix the whole lot together with a spade and put enough back in the bottom of the hole such that the rim of the pot reaches the top of the hole.
• Gently remove the plant from its pot. Hold the base of the stem, turn the pot upside down and tap the bottom until you feel the plant loosening. Don’t drop it!
• Tease out the ends of the roots from the root ball very carefully, unless the planting instructions specifically tell you not to disturb the roots, in which case, leave them as they are.
• Pop the plant into the centre of the hole and making sure it stays upright, shovel in more of the soil, compost, fertilizer mixture.
• With your foot, very very gently, firm down the soil around the plant until it reaches the point where the rim of the pot was.
• Water in very well. If you live in a hot climate, insert a watering drip system as you plant each item.
• Mulch around the plant with compost, bark or gravel to keep weeds down and moisture in.

Sit back and enjoy your garden!



——————————————————-
Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Gardening
——————————————————-

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How to Grow Cooking Herbs

Grow your own cooking herbs to add fresh zest and flavor to your menus year-round!

Is It a Cooking Herb or a Spice?

The first thing to know in selecting which herbs to grow is the difference between cooking (culinary) herbs and spices. The cinnamon stick you put in your hot chocolate or apple cider is a spice while the parsley on the edge of your plate is an herb.
1.Cooking herbs are usually the fresh or dried leaves of plants while spices are the ground seeds, roots, fruits, flowers, and/or bark.
2.Herbs grow very well in temperate zones, while spices generally come from tropical areas.
3.Herbs add subtle flavor, whereas spices are generally more pungent and add more robust flavor.

Herbs run the gamut of about 70 cultivars, broken into categories of medicinal, ornamental, and aromatic as well as culinary or cooking herbs. To start growing cooking herbs, it’s best first to select where and how you want to grow them.

Site Selection

Most cooking herbs thrive in just about any location that gives them plenty of light, good drainage and nutrition. In addition to outdoor garden spots, culinary herbs can be grown in patio containers, as indoor herb gardens, or in greenhouses using soil-less growing techniques like hydroponics or aquaponics.

Outdoor Cooking Herb Gardens

For easy access, plant your herb garden as close to your kitchen as possible. Herbs grown in full sun have denser foliage, darker color, and higher levels of the essential oils that add flavor to your recipes. Good air circulation and drainage are also important to the success of your cooking herb garden. The size of your cooking herb garden, of course, depends on the space you have available for growing. Generally, an area 20 by 4 feet accommodates a satisfactory variety of cultivars.

Many herbs overlap in category. Border your cooking herb garden with some cultivars that have ornamental or aromatic qualities as well as the culinary. However, remember that the main purpose of this garden is for use in your kitchen.

Place cooking herbs that you use frequently in less conspicuous areas so that you won’t leave big holes in your garden when you harvest them for cooking!

Most culinary herbs thrive under the same growth conditions as the vegetables they enhance and as such are a natural addition to your vegetable garden. Some cooking herbs even have properties that repel common insect pests and garden diseases, which is an added benefit to your vegetables.

The best time to amend soil with nutrient rich compost is when you till your garden plot. Herbs have coarse roots that benefit from chunky organic matter, which helps excess water drain away and also helps provide good air circulation.

After planting your cooking herbs, skirting them with a two to three-inch layer of mulch helps soil retain moisture. In addition, composting and mulching helps you maintain the neutral to slightly alkaline soil that most herbs prefer

About the Author

Linda is an author of
Gardening Tips Tricks and How To Artciles.The next part read the rest on Gardening-Guides

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Teak outdoor furniture is some of the best outdoor furniture that can be made, but do you know why? First, let us talk about what teak is.

So, what is teak?

Teak is a deciduous tropical hardwood that is native to the south and southeast of Asia. There are three types of teak: common teak, daphat teak, and Philippine teak. The latter two are endangered, so you most certainly do not want to have any teak outdoor furniture made from them! Common teak, though, is yet to be considered endangered, and it is still a fine material for teak outdoor furniture, among other things. Fortunately, the popularity of teak has led to more sustainable production.

What other things is teak used for besides teak outdoor furniture?

First and foremost, teak was and is used as a material on ships. This is interesting, because teak does not actually float very well. In fact, when teak is being logged down, they cannot float it down the river like you can do with other logs. Rather, elephants would drag it out and stack it!

Obviously, teak is not a popular material in shipping because of its great flotation properties. Rather, it is used because it is easy to work with, resists decay, and can help prevent rust on metal that it is in contact with.

Teak is also used for teak outdoor furniture, too, of course, and it is used for fairly similar reasons. Because of the natural oils in teak, it is highly resistant to all weather conditions and it can also resist insect (termites, etc.) attacks. In other words, teak is perfect for practically all outdoor uses.

Therefore, it is used not just for teak outdoor furniture, but also for doors and window panes in India, as well as many other things.

Should you buy teak outdoor furniture for yourself?

Teak is a wonderful material for outdoor furniture that will last a lifetime (or more if properly cared for). Of course, the cost of teak outdoor furniture reflects this. So, whether or not it is worth it to you to empty out your wallet on a set of teak outdoor furniture is totally up to you.

Outdoor furniture made from other woods can be just as stylish, and it can even last almost as long when properly cared for. The choice is up to you.

If you do buy teak outdoor furniture, you will not regret it, though!

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for websites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background includes teaching and gardening. For more of her articles on outdoor furniture, please visit Outdoor Garden Furniture and Outback Patio

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Container gardening is a wonderful idea whether you have a garden bed or not. It’s perfect for apartments or small areas, but can also really enhance your patio. Here are some tips on gardening in containers.

Every Garden can benefit from the addition of container gardens. They add interst and variety, plus are easily moved around. If you live in an apartment or have a small area to work with this may be the only solution for you.

Your Container

Your container can be pretty much anything and is only limited to your imagination. Just make sure there is adequate drainage for your plants. I love old buckets, discarded kitchen pots and baskets for a rustic feel. For a formal garden choose a more traditional container.

Regardless of your choice of container, make sure it’s not to big or too small for your planting.

Your Soil

Do not use garden soil for your container plants. Garden soil is too heavy, dries out too quickly and will not provide the needed nutrients your container plants need. You can find good potting soil at your local garden center or you can mix your own.

To mix your own make sure you include soil, peat, sand and a slow release fertilizer.

Maintenance

You’ll need to pay close attention to your container grown plants — much more than plants in your garden beds. The soil will dry out more quickly so frequent watering it a must. You’ll also need to fertilize more frequently. Water in the morning or evening whenever the soil is almost dry and water thoroughly until water comes out the bottom drainage holes.

One thing I really love about container gardening is mobility. If a particular grouping doesn”t work you can simply move your pots and change your garden design.

Have fun, experiment and be creative!

About the Author

Jill has been an avid gardener for the last 15 years. She faces the challenges of New Mexico’s high desert at 6800 feet.
Resource websites are http://www.bulbandseed.com and www.agardenwalk.com

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